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There is a boom in eco clothing. The German consumer association "Die Verbraucher Initiative e.V." lists over a dozen different ecological certificates for textiles, including the "Öko-Tex Standard 100". Since 1992, this has been a test and certification system used for textiles by the "International International Oeko-Tex Association", with headquarters in Zurich. The goal is for textiles to comply with limits for specific toxic substances. "Öko-Tex“ comprises 43 test institutions world-wide which use uniform, annually revised criteria for testing for toxic substances.
The extended version, "Öko-Tex Standard 100 plus", comprises both the criteria for textile products stipulated by the "Öko-Tex Standard 100"and the "Öko-Tex Standard 1000" for companies. The "Öko-Tex Standard 1000" is a certification system relating to the complete manufacturing chain in textile production. Its criteria include compliance with guideline values for cleaning waste water and air, economic use of energy, avoiding noise and dust and maintaining safety in the work place, as well as banning child labour. Textiles certified according to "Öko-Tex Standard 100 plus" are both tested for toxic substances and produced in an environmentally friendly way.
The "Verbraucher Initiative" recommends Öko Tex Standard 100 plus" in its label data base, because the "100 plus" health, ecological and social criteria go some way beyond current legal requirements. Its criteria are tested by independent institutions according to well-defined processes, and breaches are prosecuted and, if necessary, sanctioned by loss of the right to use the label. According to the "Verbraucher Initiative", the independence of this certificate is guaranteed, and its criteria and processes are accessible to all.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), first drafted in 2005, comprises far-reaching criteria for biologically and socially responsible manufacture of textiles. In addition to the core working norms as defined by the International Labour Organisation (ILO), GOTS also comprises regulations on the processing of biological fibres and on the environmentally responsible production of textiles. There are two versions of this certificate: one for products with at least 70 per cent organic fibres and one for those with over 95 per cent organic fibres. The certificate is awarded by the four member organisations, including the International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), which in Germany also has its own certificate "Naturtextil Best", and the Soil Association (England) and the Organic Trade Association (USA).
